2 Days in Sapa was not enough

Internet Cafe at Sapa Town

We started out early for a trekking tour to Lao Chai Village and Ta Van Village. Our guide gave us two trekking options in the morning: one with great views, or one that would be very close to the fields. We took the obvious option for the great views, but it was not until an hour later that we realized it was a treacherous 8km trek ascending and descending a couple of mountains on some rather steep trails.

It was still early in the morning but the sky was very clear and sun was very strong. Each step became harder under the heat and the sweat. But every now and then we would stop at the top of a hill, or a small clearing to take a break, and we would see the breathtaking Sapa Valley hundreds of meters under our feet. We would then spread our welcome arms to the warm breezes that swept over us. It was a wonderful feeling realizing that every step had been worth the while, for if it wasnt for the labourous trekking, we would not have had the appreciation for the beauty and the magnificence of these scenaries.

The number of rice terraces was greater and the design was more complex than what we saw in on the previous day. According to the tour guide, each one step was created every year by a family. And what we saw that day was the result of the backbreaking work of many generations.

Very soon we saw Lao Chai Village before of us. We were still on top of last mountain, and we had to make our way down. The descending paths were always the hardest for us because they were rocky and steep. Many times we had to grab onto the tall grass and bushes around us to maintain our balance. The village on the other side of a shallow river. We crossed the river by stepping onto the protruding rocks.

We had lunch in a local hut. The meal was cooked by the tour guide with local ingredients, and the meal made with local ingredients, a simple stir fry noodles with pork. But the noodles were crunchy, and the pork was lean and tender. The meal was very satisfying. What we found so far in our south east asia trip was that local meats were a lot leaner those from North America and Japan, and in some cases even more flavorful.

In our trek through Lao Chai village, we observed that for the Mong Tribes, women did the majority of the work, from selling souvenirs, tending their farms, cooking and looking after children, while men were drinking away with their buddies in broad day light. We even came across a drunken men lying face down in the grass, and it was well after noon at that time.

Next stop was the Ta Van village where Dzao tribe lived. Although right next to the Black Mong Village, the Dzao villagers here dressed very differently. Their fashion was less "tribal" and resembles traditional chinese costumes. They also did not hard sell to us. They set up shops outside of their homes, and their work was much more refined and technical. From one of the shops we bought a stone carving, and bargained it down to the last dollar. In the end we bought it at less than half of the original price.

It was time to leave the villages, and we went back to the hotel on a jeep. It was relieving not being on our feet anymore. As the jeep rode along, the guitar opening of Hotel California started in the radio, setting the most appropriate mood for the romantic views. I could not take my eyes away from the Valley, and it was then I felt that the two days that we had spent here were not enough.

We left Sapa to return to Hanoi on the overnight train. There we were assigned with another couple from Australia. They were very friendly and easy going people, it felt like Australians and Canadians shared the same type of optimism and outlook, except that Australians get all the great weather, mandatory 4-week vacation, and we get all the snow and the measely 10 days. Our conversations lasted until we could hardly keep our eyes open, and with that we fell fast asleep.